Umpqua National Forest – Cow Creek National Recreation Trail #1424 (usda.gov) This National Recreation Trail follows Cow Creek through a dense stand of Douglas-fir and Western Hemlock for approximately 4 miles. Giant old growth, lush glades of moss and ferns—including maidenhair and swordfern—and brilliant fall colors are features of this part of the trail. With five creek crossings up to two feet deep, hikers cross by using stable, downed logs to use as bridges.
Its not unusual for our club to change hike locations due to trail or road conditions, weather, etc. We also end up changing our scheduled hikes due to wildfires. Sadly, but not surprisingly, this has been happening more and more often as the years go by. With our forests turning into tinderboxes during the summer, its more or less a crapshoot when we schedule any hikes in the higher elevations during the summer.
The summer of 2023 was no exception, as this hike to Bullpup Lake, which was scheduled for early September, was nixed due to the Chilcoot Fire happening near Steamboat. The Forest Service closed the area which Bullpup Lake sits in. So, when we met to schedule hikes for the next quarter, Edwin threw Bullpup Lake on the agenda again, this time for late October. There were no fires at the time, and we were confident there would certainly be no snow on the ground…
As we cautiously made our way through the snow-filled roads on the day of the hike, we arrived at the trailhead with mild trepidation. Amazed that we actually made it this far, we decided that we would just hike and assess the trail conditions as we went along. Although most of the trail is nestled inside dense forest, there was more snow on the path than one would think. Fortunately, it was only about ankle-deep and not that wet, making the somewhat dryish snow a bit easier to trudge through. However, the depth of the snow would increase as the hike progressed.
With Edwin out front, the rest of us dutifully followed. Terry, Michael, Diane, Colby, myself, and newcomer Jeanette happily marched up the trail, allowing the snow to brush off all the dust that had accumulated on our boots during the summer.
After reaching the small but picturesque Bullpup Lake, we paused and soaked in this winter wonderland we were standing in. With the morning sun glimmering off the lake and the snow-covered trees perched against the clear blue sky, our minds were duped into thinking that Christmas must be right around the corner. Yet, Halloween hadn’t even happened!
The trail from Bullpup Lake leads further up and eventually peaks near Lost Prairie Rock. Our plan was to see how far up the hillside we could get before being stopped by either downed trees, excessively deep snow, or just sheer exhaustion from trudging through said deep snow. (Fact: We measured the snow at about 18 inches in some open areas off the trail)
It was a beautiful snow hike, as far as snow hikes go. And no, we do not plan our hikes with an intent to hike in snow. In fact, we try to avoid it! But occasionally, in that narrow zone where what we have in mind and what nature throws at us overlap, and we encounter a happy compromise that, if planned, wouldn’t end up as amazing as when left to the hands of fate. In simple terms: Sometimes our hikes turn out much better than we planned!
We made our way up higher, eventually reaching a large open overlook that provided unprecedented views to the north. This would have made a good place to have lunch, enjoy the view and then head back down the hill. However, it seemed as if the trail was personally challenging us to see how far we could take this hike…
After catching our breath, we proceeded up the hill even further, stepping over several trees along the way. The trail eventually reached a ridgeline, offering narrow, fleeting views to the east. It was along this ridgeline that our crew began to run low on fumes, and Edwin decided to call it good. I agreed, as we still had over a mile to go to reach the meadow that we both envisioned having lunch at. Instead, warm butts met cold snow as we plopped down amongst the trees.
It didn’t take long to eat, as the sudden cease in activity allowed the cold to quickly put the chill on us, and we hurriedly began the trek back down the hill. Having already broken trail on the way up, it was a much smoother walk on the way back down. Once again, we enjoyed all the same views, but this time without all the huffing and puffing.
Upon reaching the vehicles, we met up with Diane, who had decided to just hang out near the lake, and even did a road walk as she waited for our return. However, I felt a little bad for her, as she didn’t have the pleasure of wading through the real deep stuff, and she missed out on some of the views. Maybe next time…
Eleven of us fall-loving hikers met at the courthouse on a chilly morning. It was a beautiful colorful drive to the trailhead. Two other hikers from Grants Pass met us at the trailhead, eager to join us.
And off we went! We quickly realized we were in for a fall treat! The trail meandered through fallen leaves with tunnels of overhead branches and a sea of color! Much of the trail is right along the beautiful Rogue River. Oh, that river melody!! About 2.5 miles into the trail, you start to hear, and then see, the amazing Takelma Gorge. What a spectacular site to see, and on top of that, with glorious fall foliage. Wow!
We lunched at, what Rheo calls, the liquid rocks near Woodruff Bridge. Once again, why, how? Need that geology class! We headed back to the trailhead with the gift of a second viewing in the different afternoon light. Cameras going click-click – ha!
I thought I might have done this hike in the past. But, nope, I would have remembered this one! Definitely add it to your fall hiking schedule for next year!
On the far eastern end of the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Trail lies Three Lakes, if in name only. In reality, there’s really only one lake, but even then, it barely qualifies as a pond. Perhaps in the past there were two other small bodies of water, but it appears those have all but dried up and turned into meadows. This was our destination, nonetheless, so the route to get to this large puddle of water had better have some decent scenery. Fortunately, it did. With a hint of wildfire smoke in the air, we made our way through large meadows, tall forests, and several small creeks. This made the 9-mile hike worth the effort.
Seven hikers gathered at the courthouse. My first comment to them was, “Everyone knows we’re not doing Bohemia Mountain today due to smoke, right?” Ha! Yep, we’re all on the same page! Good start!
It was a beautiful drive up the North Umpqua, a bright blue sky. So good to see after periods of smoke that week. After a mid-road turn around (what’s a great day of hiking without “turn around, follow me”…) we found the trailhead.
We parked on FS road 60, then began our trek up trail 1414. This is technically the Lemolo segment of the North Umpqua Trail. It follows the North Umpqua River in the beginning. This is a much smaller version of said river, a very pretty, meandering version as we are not that far from its beginning (Maidu Lake). Vegetation was very lush and wet because of a full day of rain the previous day. Mosquitoes were pretty thick, big and hungry.
About 2.25 miles up the trail, it changes in name to the Maidu segment. We crossed Tolo creek and continued. The trail began to climb and become dusty. At approximately 3.5 miles, the hungries got us and we found logs in the sun (to avoid skeeters) to enjoy our lunch. Always fun, intellectual discussions with friends such as the best compliment to a peanut butter sandwich! Heading back down, we reached Tolo Creek. John stated he’d never been up Tolo Creek, so off we went on an adventure. What a great little find! A small gentle creek with ripples and small waterfalls. As the trail left the creek and went up, discussion began. Well, we do have to hike back out! So, our return began. We hiked about 11.75 miles. A great day of hiking and adventure!
On a late July day, Hemlock Creek Trail offered a challenging but rewarding hike, starting in the cool surroundings of Lake In The Woods. As 15 of us gathered for John’s 8.8 miler, we charged immediately up the forested trail with vigorous enthusiasm. Then we found a road. Ok, that didn’t last very long… so a short road walk. But then, it was back on the trail!
The uphill slog seemed to be less painful than it probably actually was, as hikers were distracted with all the trees and the pretty little waterfalls along the way. Isn’t that nice. Although the trail didn’t offer much in the way of views that we hikers always talk and brag about, this quaint little trail is every bit as satisfying as any other out there. And it heads uphill. Quite a lot, I might add.
As we merrily crossed over picturesque foot bridges and became enamored with the spectacularly tall trees, we continued with energetic enthusiasm. Then we found a road. Ok, so we took a little breather here, a short respite if you will. We then crossed the road to the other side to continue the hike. I’m pretty sure there’s a joke in there somewhere…
The trail eventually brought all of us to a large meadow, upon which we partook in the devouring of sandwiches, beef sticks, and the like. From here, a short walk to the campground was in order for this hiker, as I had to use the facilities there. Then I found a road. Ok, so this sorta makes sense, as bathrooms in campgrounds are typically found near roads. After taking care of business, I made may way back to the meadow and to my fellow devourers of food.
My now pleasantly plump partners were ready to skedaddle back down the hill from where we came. I was not opposed to this decision. The way back down was just as satisfying, if not more so due to the lack of heavy panting, which, as we all know, is discussed in the hiker’s guide of trail etiquette…
If you didn’t know, heavy panting is required when going uphill. The common courtesy of heavy panting is an indication, a warning if you will, to other hikers to keep their distance, that you may hurl at any moment. This primal act of involuntary heavy breathing has prevented many a hiker’s pantlegs from being soiled by another hiker’s oral projectiles. However, I digress…
Working our way back down the trail, we pretty much saw everything in reverse order, and at the opposite angle. Pretty wild. Then we found a road. Again.
Then it was more of the same, but just a little bit warmer, and much easier without the heavy panting. Heavy panting is required when… hold on a sec…. we found a road. Never mind, same road we crossed at the beginning of the hike. Ok, so we must be close to being done.
Back at Lake In The Woods campground, several hikers took advantage of an extremely rare thing found in campgrounds: flush toilets! It was here a bizarre discussion about toilet paper took place. You’ll find it at the end of the video for this hike. Viewer beware…
While classic car enthusiasts sat around admiring hot rods, flatbed trucks, and the like during Roseburg’s Graffiti week, some of us opted to just sit around on Pine Bench. Literally, that’s what we did. But we had to get there first. Although not a strenuous hike, the first mile climbs nearly a thousand feet, which made all the hikers who joined me on this day wonder what they had gotten themselves into.
As the group of about 15 of us left the Soda Springs Trailhead just below the Soda Springs Dam (like, it would be somewhere else?…) This short trail intersects with the Bradley Trail, at which point we turned westward. I informed the group that the first mile was the toughest, but that it would be smooth sailing after that. From the viewpoint of my fellow hikers, that comment seemed to be more myth than truth as they huffed and puffed up through the shaded forest. I honestly didn’t think they believed me. But to everyone’s relief, the trail did eventually level off some, but not until we made one last push through a burned area that was exposed to the already hot July sun. I think I just hear someone click “dislike” on this hike…
Redemption for me came when we entered the plateau of Pine Bench after that uphill drudge of a thousand feet. The shade of the tall firs and pines, along with the levelness of the trail got me back into everyone’s good graces. Up here, in this park-like setting, it’s hard to be despondent about anything. It’s one of those places that you could imagine being a pleasant park, or a nice wooded campground. That is, if there were any roads up here. There isn’t. It’s wilderness. Otherwise, I would’ve drove here.
The serene trail that runs east to west here eventually intersects with the Boulder Creek Trail, which heads deep into the Boulder Creek Wilderness. We would only be going about a half mile up to where a small campsite offers some nice cliffy views well above the creek below. It pleased me to see that some trail work had been completed here. A year and a half ago when Colby and I hiked up here, the small side trail to the campsite was passable, but overgrown with brush. Trail work these days is not as common as it used to be, and us hikers truly appreciate any and all efforts that others have put forth to making these paths hiker friendly.
It was near this campsite where we sat upon the world’s largest pine bench to eat lunch. After sharing a few stories and laughs, we commenced the walk back across the “flatueau”. Upon reaching the trail intersection, we stayed on the Boulder Creek Trail which immediately charges straight downhill. Looking back, I think I would’ve led the group back down the Bradley Trail, as it was apparent that the trail workers neglected to clear out this portion of the Boulder Creek trail that heads downhill. It was still in good shape, but there were areas where we had to do some brush-dodging in order to avoid getting whacked in the face by the branches. Also, there wasn’t much to look at here. And it’s rather steep with many switchbacks. My recommendation? Just avoid this portion of the trail. And you’d truly hate yourself if you attempted to go UP this part of the trail!
We soon reached the North Umpqua Trail and headed upriver back to the parking area. This 2-mile stretch is really a road and not a trail, and doesn’t offer much more than the sound of the river with no good views. Just another reason that I should’ve done this hike as a straight out and back hike instead of a loop. That being said, any day hiking is better than any day working!
We got back just as the mercury was hitting the mid 80’s. Some of us cooled off with water that was pouring from a breach in the nearby water flume. After a 6-mile hike in the middle of summer, it’s just what you do.
Overall, I think everyone enjoyed this tour of the world’s largest pine bench. It’s not a stroll through the park, but with some effort, anyone can make it up to Pine Bench and take a stroll through an environment that is very park-like.
Thirteen gathered for the hike on the Siltcoos Lake loop trail with Edwin leading us counterclockwise on the loop. The weather was perfect under the shade of the lakeside forest. We had a pleasant lunch spot on the lake with much lollygagging and storytelling before the finish of our loop. Others headed over for a stroll on the beach after our 4.1-mile loop, which may have been challenging since there was a huge gathering for an ATV takeover of the beach, unbeknownst to us.
After a hour and half drive to the trailhead, 14 enthusiastic hikers started down the North Umpqua Trail to the top view of Lemolo Falls. In 1908, two rangers on horseback named a four-mile ridgeline south of the river as “Dread and Terror” in reference to the disagreeable possibility of fighting forest fires in the impenetrable thickets of white thorn brush blanketing the area. For us, in this day and age, it turned out to be a beautiful, 4-mile out and back along the North Umpqua River with no thorn brush in sight! Views included cascading rapids and small falls culminating at 102-foot Lemolo Falls.
After stopping for a lunch break, we regrouped at our vehicles and proceeded a few miles to the next trailhead that would take us to another perspective of Lemolo Falls. This hike took us a mile or so down the opposite side of the river canyon in a series of switchbacks that led us to the bottom of the falls. Along the way, many rhododendrons and wildflowers were in bloom providing a splash of color. The raging sound of the falls and the huge clouds of spray provided a spectacular visual and auditory extravaganza!
